Tag: Stirling

Component kit planning, Stirling motor kit.

Posted by – July 24, 2010


A Stirling motor that can grow with you, the base kit and extra pattern parts for modifications is the goal. I am really excited about getting a coil generator running off magnets pressfit in flywheel face, hopefully the coils will advance towards magnets by hand after motor has spun up to speed. I began assembling the parts list for the machinist/homemetal worker, science class kit. This will be the raw ingredients to make the 3.25″ nexus stirling motor, builders will require the use of a lathe and some optional milling ability as well as a drill press to finish bolt holes. All the stacked components come pre-waterjet cut with an exact bore when stacked with power piston hole and displacer and tower small holes. Plans and tips. 5/8″ thick composite seperating flange, this is the key to how this compact stirling works and with a super light solid displacer the performance is that of more complex versions. 1″ plus of .0005 displacer rod sealing and bushing. No ice required on top, water resivoir can be filled without leakage risk and indicates 200f when boiling. The engine’s heat diferences allow running when unit exceeds 200f surface temp as with 1hr plus run times. High heat sealant for displacer assembly. Bearings, finished brass bore, graphite stock, high strength stainless 3-32 allen bolts with nylock nuts for top capable of sealing and prevention of warping. Carbon fiber/NBR heat sheild disk and zero-grav glass foam displacer disks as well as fitted displacer rod and

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Scratch built LTD Stirling engine

Posted by – March 29, 2010


No, i don’t have a lathe but i do have a $40 HF 8″ Drill Press that i can (sorta) turnparts on.

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JB weld Ringbom Stirling

Posted by – March 12, 2010


I made this ringbom engine using JB weld(for the piston and displacer rod, sanded lightly for a loose fit), some clear epoxy, the top of a Hoody’s plastic peanut container, some brass tubing bought from hobbytown, a rear mounted propeller, a plastic racing wheel, 2 small bearings, some .020 music wire, 1/2 inch white styrofoam, a plastic screw, and some aluminum sheet to make this engine. The only tools I used were pliers, an cordless drill, a knife and tin snips. Update: Ok, I’m full of it, I forgot that I needed to use a drill press to get the holes in the 1/4″ aluminum straight, and a hacksaw to rough cut the aluminum sheeting. I recently changed out the displacer to a lighter one and the stroke is smaller, it runs a bit faster. With just a flywheel instead of the prop, it will run about 600-700rpms on boiling water and ice.

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